Motorcycle Diaries: An Epic Ride From the Douro Valley to the Alentejo

“There’s something about motorcycling that connects you. It’s the wind. It’s the sounds. It’s the spirit of being aware of your surroundings,” says Hóracio Alves, Epic’s adventure expert.

Last year Epic organised a brilliant trip for a special family, taking three generations on a motorbiking journey across Portugal, from the Douro Valley to the Alentejo via Serra da Estrela. 

“It was beautiful to not only see them connect to the places, but also to create a really strong bond between themselves,” says Hóracio. “It was the first time that the Grandson and the Grandparent were riding together.”

As the motorbikes growled into life, so began the start of a once-in-a-lifetime adventure. Over five days the family experienced the freedom, open road, and bonding inspired by the rugged beauty of rural Portugal. Let’s take a look at where they went and what it was like with the help of Hóracio, who was leading the charge.

A unique birthday gift

“At one point the son turned to me one of the days and said: ‘This is probably my dad’s last rodeo on the motorbike. So it’s really cool for us to be doing this as a family’,” says Hóracio.

This journey was the chance for Grandfather, Father and Son to bond, connected by blood and the shared experience of exploring Portugal. Together with a close family friend, the four set off across the country. Half the group preferred to ride powerful Harley Davidsons, while the other half liked cycling. We gave them the option to do both and change between.

“It was a really complex thing to organise because we had two groups doing separate things, but crossing paths somewhere along the way so that we could always have lunch or coffee stops together,” says Hóracio. “The motorbiking part was the backbone of it all because it was the gift to the Grandfather.”

Planning the most epic stops

“All the coffee stops were just beautiful and completely tailor-made for them,” says Hóracio. “For example, the coffee stop for the first day was at a chapel that was built in 1464 – so prior to the discovery of Brazil, which is like crazy! And this was the first farm to have potatoes and tobacco plantations in the old region of Douro.

“The second day coffee stop was in the middle of a valley in the middle of nowhere in a region that no one goes usually in the Douro, and it was just beautiful. The owners had made a little plateau in the middle of the vineyard with a stone table, a tree and some rose flowers.”

Read next…. Conquering Portugal’s Highest Mountain: An Ultra Marathon Across Serra Da Estrela

A boat trip on the Douro Valley

When planning Epic trips, we try to avoid using transfers if possible. On Day 1 we popped the family on a historic private boat to cruise down the Douro River, enjoying lunch on board and passing through a lock.

“When they got off the boat in Regua their bikes were already there, waiting for them again. So they could hop straight on the bikes and go to the hotel. That makes everything feel natural and transfer-free. That way everything flows and feels connected,” says Hóracio.

Wild cooking on Day Two

“We took them to a beautiful hotel and wine estate called Quinta do Ventozelo where we ventured down to the river for a private wild cooking experience,” says Hóracio.

One of Epic’s motorcycling guides works in marketing for the world’s oldest motorbiking brand, Royal Enfield, and he also happens to be a wild chef. He stepped off the bike and into a beautiful outdoor kitchen, which we had set up down by the river. Our guests could relax on the grass, swim in the river, or join the action. 

“They told they go to very expensive Michelin star restaurants, and yet the wild cooking was the best lunch they had,” says Hóracio. After the day’s adventures, the group rode back to the beautiful and luxurious Six Senses Hotel to rest, recover and enjoy the facilities.

The most adventurous motorcycle ride on Day Three

“The third day for me was the most adventurous and the most fun day of all,” says Hóracio. 

A helicopter landed at Six Senses to take them to Portugal’s highest mountain, Serra da Estrela. While it sounds simple, Hóracio says it took four months to secure a private landing spot on the mountain, because much of it is a protected natural reserve.

The group landed in a field where summer had turned the grass golden and their bikes were waiting, ready to conquer the most stunning, winding roads on the mountain.  

“This is hands down the most beautiful road to ride motorbikes on in Portugal – hands down. You climb up Serra da Estrela, and then descend again, but we added a picnic lunch stop really close to the tower at around 1900 metres (6,230 feet) high,” says Hóracio. “So that was definitely the highest picnic in Portugal mainland that day.”

Read next… Searching for wolves: Exploring Portugal’s only national park

The rocky changing landscapes of Serra da Estrela

The route was planned to go from stunning to spectacular on this day. At first, you see small granite boulders and green grassy fields, then the landscape starts to become rocky and drier. 

“When you pass to the other side of the mountain it’s just completely crazy because the landscape just shifts immediately. You suddenly see these gigantic granite monsters facing you. It looks like you’re in the Alps, and you’re just riding past these gigantic granite boulders,” Hóracio explains.

“It’s really nice because before lunch you have one experience, then after lunch you’re on the road again yet the scenery is so different.”

After passing through a granite tunnel, the group reached a plateau where a helicopter was waiting to jump them to the Alentejo. We organised their bags to arrive at São Lourenço do Barrocal half an hour before they did, ready to relax, shower and refresh ahead of a night stargazing under open skies.

Connecting with locals on Day Four  

Setting off from São Lourenço do Barrocal, a beautiful estate deep in the Alentejo, the motorbikes wove along back roads, winding past typical Alentejo villages, where traditional mustard yellow or cobalt blue trimmed white homes feel frozen in time. Soon they reached the small marble city of Estremoz. 

“Today’s coffee stop was really special. We pulled up at an olaria, which is a pottery workshop,” says Hóracio. “Olaria Jeremias is a really traditional and local place, where the owners don’t speak English. And we arranged a visit from a Lisbon barista, as one of the group was a coffee connoisseur.”

City coffee culture collided with a traditional and rural artisan workshop for a unique immersive experience. Jeremias was on the wheel moulding clay into pottery while the group enjoyed a specialty flat white, and each of them was able to have a go at making something themselves. Best of all, it was a chance to pick up authentic local souvenirs for back home.

After, lunch was at a small organic vineyard, where the owner took everyone on a tour of the farm. “It has such a nice story. The couple moved from Lisbon to the Alentejo where they’re trying to do their own thing,” says Hóracio. “We always look for inspiring people with great stories like this.”

Finally, after a big day out they returned to the beautiful hotel, São Lourenço do Barrocal where they could relax by the pool, request a wine or olive oil tasting, go horse riding, visit the spa, or ask Hóracio to take them mountain bike riding across the massive 7.8 million square metre property.  

Keeping things flexible

A holiday should be what you want to do ‘in the moment’, and so flexibility was key for this trip. 

“Every morning and at almost every stop they could choose what they wanted to do next,” says Hóracio. While the choices were limited, the options felt very open. The family could switch from bikes to bicycles, join Hóracio for a hike, or jump in the van.

“They could do almost anything, and this was one of the key things about this trip. At the end they came to us and said ‘Well, guys, I have never had a trip like this where you’re so free to do whatever you want. But whatever you want to do is always prepared’.”

As we were balancing three generations with different interests, that was the best feedback we could have asked for. For much of the ride, it was Grandfather and Grandson on the motorbikes, while Dad was pedalling his way along. It took plenty of planning to make sure they crossed paths at each coffee stop, lunch destination, or activity.

Read next… The Epic Hot List: The Must-Do Experiences in Portugal in 2024 

Planning the next motorbike journey…

“We’re always working on new concepts, like crossing the desert in Morocco by motorbike,” says Hóracio. “These journeys have an underlying idea of connection and community. We are working on a new experience which connects riders to the heart of Morocco. By letting go of material possessions, by sleeping in tents or staying with local families and giving back to the local communities. We want the experience to be adventurous, exciting, and meanfulful.”

Want to explore Portugal or Morocco by motorcycle, bicycle, or your preference of transport? Get in touch with our team and we’ll make your dream motorcycle trip happen.

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