Searching for wolves: Exploring Portugal’s only national park

Wolves have such a strong, hard-wired image in our minds. Widely referred to in mythology, whilst wild predators, they are also seemingly wise, loyal and enchanting. The Iberian Wolf like many of the wild animal populations in Europe has diminished in numbers over time, but they can still be found in parts of Spain and Northern Portugal. 

One of those places in Portugal is Peneda-Gerês National Park, which sits on the northern border, about 66 miles (107 kilometres) northeast of Porto. A favourite with hikers and outdoors enthusiasts, let’s explore the natural beauty of the region in the search for the last wild Iberian wolves.

Where is Peneda-Gerês National Park?

When you think of Portugal the first thing that comes to mind might be beaches, colourful cities, and delicious food. But the small Iberian nation is also home to incredible nature, wild adventures, and epic varied landscapes. Most nature reserves in Portugal are called Natural Parks, which makes Peneda-Gerês the country’s only national park. 

Peneda-Gerês National Park, a landmass of some 70,000 hectares featuring four mountains and many waterfalls, lies in the very north of the country, touching the border with Spain. Located just 66 miles (107 kilometres) northeast of Porto, it’s possible to reach the deep wilderness with a day trip, but of course, it’s more fun when you have three days or more to explore.

What’s the history of this land?

Peneda-Gerês National Park has been settled by hardy arable farmers for thousands of years. The earliest signs of habitation date back to 6000 B.C. as evidenced by the Neolithic tombs that dot the landscape. The area was also a key Roman thoroughfare and site of megalithic communities, there is a lot to discover beyond the natural beauty

Read next: The Epic Hot List: The Must-Do Experiences in Portugal in 2024 

Unique adventures and things to do in Peneda-Gerês National Park

“You will feel quite quickly like you are in the wild far, far away from human intervention, surrounded by the beauty of nature” says Horácio.

Horácio is our Epic adventure specialist, and he creates unique Portugal adventures for clients in Peneda-Gerês National Park and beyond. He’s been hiking, trail running, and biking around the region since he was a young boy. Throughout his lifetime he’s connected with the villages, people, landscape and history. That gives him the knowledge and contacts to craft the right experience depending for each group’s preferences and expectations. Let’s see what he suggests:

Hiking routes in Peneda-Gerês National Park

There are a few hiking routes that Horácio recommends, mostly centred around the Amarela and Gerês mountains. These routes within Portugal’s Peneda-Gerês National Park are designed for different levels of hiker, and depend on the interest areas of each traveller. 

“We invite a local friend Piedro on many of our hikes,” Horácio explains, as an example. “He is a local historian and archaeologist, and it’s great to benefit from his knowledge of geology, and he points out all the megalithic and Roman sites along the way.”

From easy or straightforward hikes you can complete in under two hours, to more challenging (yet so rewarding) half-day loops to reach the cascading pools of Sete Lagoas (Seven Lakes) or local waterfalls, like Cascata do Arado, there are seemingly endless options for hiking in Peneda-Gerês National Park.

At the end of the day, choosing which trails to tackle comes down to your preferences, fitness level, and eagerness to trek through the wilds of Portugal. 

Visit a fojo – or wolf trap

For many centuries the now endangered Iberian wolf was hunted and killed. Local villagers feared the beast, associated with the underworld and who also attacked animals grazing in the mountains. To fight the wolves, locals created fojos – wolf traps. 

A fojo has high granite walls that converge towards a circular pit. In Portugal’s Peneda-Gerês National Park you can see Fojo do Lobo de Fafião, considered the best-preserved example of a wolf trap in the Iberian Peninsula. It represents the struggle between man and wolf, and tells of the history of the mountains. 

The walls of Fojo do Lobo de Fafião are around 64 metres (210 feet) long and average just over two metres (seven feet) high, and this one dates back to the 18th century.

Thankfully, the Iberian wolf is now a protected species.

Meet wild horses, Barrosã cattle, and other wildlife

Wild horses are found in Peneda-Geres National Park in Portugal
Goats can be seen in Peneda-Geres National Park in Portugal

While it’s rare to see the almost mythical Iberian wolf, you’ll cross paths with plenty of other wildlife and farm animals while exploring Peneda-Gerês National Park. Goats, Barrosã cattle, sheep (and their predators), Roe deer (the symbol of the park), wild ponies, and 147 different bird species call Portugal’s only national park home.

While driving winding roads or hiking through the landscape you’ll likely find a herd of shy wild horses and their young, or come face-to-face with one of the gentle Barrosã cattle and with the huge horns.

Go camping in the mountains

The best adventures in Gerês happen when you go deeper. Set off on a 15km (9.3 mile) hike through the mountains and you’ll journey through scenic landscapes, and past lagoons and a rock water slide before pausing to camp for the night. 

Deep in the mountains overlooking three valleys and surrounded by amazing rock formations is where you’ll feel most disconnected from the outside world. Here you can reflect, relax, and instead connect with nature. This is where you’ll find remote, granite hamlets frozen in time where shepherds tend their cattle, goats, and ponies.

Read next: A Journey to the Heartland of Portugal

Break bread with a shepherd

Often travel is about the people we meet along the way, and there’s no better local character to meet in the mountain than a local shepherd who still practices transhumance – the nomadic art of seasonal roaming with the herd. 

Joining a Portuguese shepherd for lunch or dinner at the highest point of Peneda-Gerês National Park is a high point of any trip. While he speaks only Portuguese, our local shepherd understands English quite well, making campfire conversations funny and revealing with the help of your Epic guide.

Sat around the campfire, you’ll watch as local steak is grilled over an open flame along with local potatoes. A true mountain meal for a handful of lucky people sharing a few moments in nature together. 

Culture in local villages

Many of the 22 villages you can visit in the Peneda-Gerês region have only a small number of people and out here family culture remains strong. You won’t find more generous people than those who live in this mountain region. 

One of the villages we often visit is the heart of goat farming and Epic actually sponsors goats to help support the village and local traditions. It’s here you’ll see an old fojo or wolf trap. Goats are still attractive prey for the protected Iberian wolf population. 

Hungry travellers are welcomed by Joaquina and Senhor José, who go out of their way to provide a very Portuguese spread with local wine, bagaço (the local version of grappa), home-made cakes and Iberica ham from local farm-reared pigs.

In other villages, local restaurants will open their doors exclusively for you. In these private moments you’ll try a traditional dish of ‘potatoes, cabbage, beans’ which is what it is called by the locals, and usually features pork or other local meats.

Combine your adventure with off-beat activities

After sleeping in the quiet beauty of the mountain, you could awake to a session of sunrise yoga, or spend a relaxed morning painting, sketching, or photographing the landscapes. 

It’s hard not to feel inspired by the beauty of the natural landscapes of Portugal found in Peneda Gerês National Park, so indulge yourself for just a morning and enjoy creative pursuits that take your interest.

If you’re a photography fan, Epic’s local photographic expert is an Olympus ambassador and will help level up your landscape photography game. 

Follow in the footsteps of the Iberian wolf

Scientists think around 300 Iberian wolves are left roaming the north of Portugal – but the elusive wolf isn’t easy to spot. 

If you’re on the search for wolves in the north of Portugal you’ll need luck on your side. Usually Iberian wolves travel in packs of three to 10, and in their search for prey they may move 20-40km (12-24 miles) a day within their territory.

These hunts usually take place in the pitch darkness of night, so if you’re travelling after dark keep your flashlight ready.

Where to stay: Luxurious relaxation in the mountains

Luxury accommodation in Peneda-Geres National Park in Portugal.

Hikers will be full of stories – but also a bit weary – after a few days of trekking the mountain. The antidote? Unwind at one of the best Pousadas (historic hotels) in Peneda-Gerês: Pousada Caniçada-Gerês.

This mountain retreat offers well-deserved luxury. The hotel has sumptuously furnished rooms, breathtaking views, delicious food and an outdoor swimming pool with views of the mountains for a last refreshing dip.

If you’re interested in a tailor-made hiking trip across the wild landscapes of the north of Portugal and Peneda-Gerês National Park, reach out to our team at info@epic.travel

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