Chasing the Alentejo’s Soul: A Journey Through Portugal’s Countryside
Here at Epic we’re always scouting for new experiences, and we love to share what we find as we build new offerings into our itineraries. It was with great excitement that a few of our Portugal team took the chance for a local expert guided tour to explore the richness of rural Alentejo with Luis, a fantastic local guide. Here Eva shares her personal account of the experience.
It was mid-March when we left Lisbon, with the city still in the quiet grip of early morning. The air was heavy with the scent of olives, carried from the “queima do bagaço” — a seasonal ritual of burning olive pulp. It felt like a glimpse into the journey ahead, guiding us toward the heart of Portugal’s rustic countryside: the Alentejo region.
Situated east of Lisbon and extending all the way just north of the Algarve, the Alentejo is a region that reveals itself slowly – if you rush you’re likely to miss the important details. Here ancient cork trees stand like sentinels scattered across rolling planes, and golden fields. Historic whitewashed towns and villages break up the landscape, while stone castles and crumbling forts connect it to the past.
Vineyards stretch out across the Alentejo like green carpets, producing rich wines robust in flavor and heritage. Between them are groves of olive trees, yielding the liquid gold that is at the heart of the region’s simple yet flavoursome cuisine.
Meeting Luis, our Alentejo expert
Following the invisible trail of olive-scented air, we headed south from Lisbon towards the heart of the Alentejo to meet Luís, our expert on the ground. Luís is naturally charismatic, his special blend of wit and wisdom is infectious. Across the day Luís became our friend and his introduction to this gentle land of natural beauty, history, and ancient culture made us feel connected to its roots too.
Want to meet Luís and explore the beautiful Alentejo together? Reach out to us at info@epic.travel
Road trip to Monsaraz, a medieval hilltop village
We continued our drive deeper into the heart of the Alentejo region, following winding roads past sun-drenched olive groves, vineyards, and orchards. Soon, we spotted the medieval walled village of Monsaraz, perched on a hill rising out of the landscape.
Entering through the ancient city gates was like stepping back in time. Here the whitewashed walls and slate stone contrast with the natural tones of the surrounding landscape. You can feel the history in every step.
We amble along narrow cobblestone streets until we reach the medieval castle. From the walls you can gaze out over Alqueva Dam, Europe’s largest artificial lake, and an endless patchwork of agriculture. The vast horizon stretches on forever – or at least until Spain – only interrupted by the soft sound of cow bells echoing from below. It’s a space to pause, reflect, and take in the natural beauty.
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Alentejo food tells a story
As lunch rolls around, it’s time to eat. Traditional Alentejo food is simple yet deeply flavorful, rooted in the land and its agricultural traditions. Bread, olive oil, and pork are staples, and every plate tells a story of seasonal rhythms, history and hardship.
Dishes like açorda (a bread soup with garlic, coriander, and poached egg) and migas (seasoned bread crumbs often served with pork) reflect the region’s history of making the most of available resources.
We pop into Sabores de Monsaraz, a small, family-run restaurant just outside the village walls. We’re met by Isabel, who greets us with a warm smile that makes us feel at home. Her cooking is rooted in the soul of the Alentejo, staying true to hearty traditional recipes while sourcing the best bread, olive oil, and meat from local farms.
Read next… Uncorking Portugal: 6 under-the-radar Portuguese wineries
Afternoon with the artisans
After lunch, we waved goodbye to Monsaraz and set off to meet with local artisans who continue Alentejo traditions, with skills passed down through generations. São Pedro do Corval is the largest pottery village in Portugal and here you’ll find more than 20 workshops in the town.
We enter one to see a young master potter in one corner, his hands covered in terracotta clay as he shapes perfect jugs, bowls and vases at lightening speed on a wheel. It’s mesmerising to watch his rhythm and pace, his hands knowing exactly how to guide the clay to craft the exact dimensions. He tells us it takes years to learn the craft and hopes the next generation will have the patience for it.
Nearby his mother is calmly painting traditional Alentejo patterns and landscapes, and another lady is adding more modern geometric patterns to raw terracotta pieces. Choosing a souvenir from the Alentejo is easy, deciding which terracotta piece to take home is the real challenge.
Read next… Alternative Algarve: The off-beat guide to Portugal’s Southern Coast
Exploring Évora, the Alentejo capital
Finally, we reached the small walled city of Évora. Luís leads us through the many different layers of the city’s history. Beginning at the Roman Temple of Diana, with its ancient columns standing tall against the skyline. We then entered the grand Évora Cathedral, with its Gothic spires towering above the city. Here you can climb up to the rooftop to take in panoramic views over the city and countryside.
We wind through the city, passing through the main square, Praça do Giraldo, which is surrounded by centuries-old architecture and a place to kick back with a coffee or beer. Luís leads us next to the famously eerie Chapel of Bones, where thousands of human skulls line the walls—a strangely poetic reflection on life and death. It was created by Franciscan monks to represent the transience of life and its value in the face of material pleasures.
Read next… The Epic Hot List: The Must-Do Experiences in Portugal in 2024
The return to Lisbon
While our legs were tired from hours of wondering through fields and villages, along cobblestones and through churches; we left with a deep curiosity for the region. With Luís’ help we had gained a deeper knowledge of the ancient towns, their hidden corners, and tales of past civilisations, and we felt a real appreciation of the simple beauty of Alentejo life.
If you’re interested in experiencing the heart and soul of the Alentejo while in Portugal, reach out to our team at info@epic.travel
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