The towns of Marrakech and Essaouira sit on a plain in the middle of the country. There is plenty to be said about Marrakech in particular, and it justifiably finds itself to be Morocco’s main hub for flights from Europe. It’s a place where influences from Africa, Europe and the Middle East merge in a glorious, frenetic melange and it offers excellent access to desert and mountain terrain as well as an easy journey to Essaouira, a coastal town that complements Marrakech perfectly. 

The Marrakech medina is the ancient walled city and wandering the quaint, and sometimes bewildering, alleyways of the medieval town is what keeps people coming back to the place. There are said to be around 9000, mainly pedestrianised, pathways and the area is home a dizzying mix of artisans who ply their trades from tiny holes in the walls, ruined and renovated palaces, and a mind-boggling array of beautiful guesthouses, restaurants, cafes….. Not to mention neighbourhoods and communities where people still live, shop, and go to shared bread ovens and local steam rooms. It’s a fascinating place that shouldn’t be missed.

Although the visitor experience in Marrakech is often focused around the ancient medina, the new town, or Ville Nouvelle, is an area that provides some interesting contrast for visitors. Build under the French Protectorate in the early part of the 20th century, most towns in Morocco have a new town built on a European plan, and the new town of Marrakech still thrives as a commercial centre for shops and galleries. It’s also home to (most notably) the celebrated Jardin Majorelle botanical garden, and the recently-opened Yves Saint Laurent museum. Visitors also dip into the new town to access the international restaurant and bar scene that prevails in this area of the city. 

Essaouira is Morocco’s weatherbeaten and whitewashed coastal gem on the wild shores of the Atlantic. Here the paint peels off the walls and you have the feeling of being on a set of an exotic film. It’s a bohemian place that offers a pleasant contrast and change of pace from Marrakech, borne out in its cool arts scene and good places to shop, stay overnight and eat out. It’s also an excellent place for water sports and in particular kite and wind surfing, with wave surfing possible in nearby Sidi Kaouki, a wild stretch of Atlantic sands that offers good wave conditions.  

Sandwiched between Marrakech and the High Atlas Mountains is the Agafay Desert, an expanse of open desert terrain that offers a blank canvas for exploration. It’s an ideal place to discover by 4×4, buggy or vintage sidecar, and an even more perfect place to spend the night in one of the desert oasis hotels in the region, or at one of the excellent array of tented camps. For those who are short of time, or disinclined to make the long trip over the mountains to the Sahara Desert, the Agafay makes an ideal solution, and in particular as a bridge between city and mountains.